Lemon Platinum : A Contradiction Worth Decoding
Lemon Platinum is on the rise as the next blonding trend according to Byrdie but it’s a bit of an oxymoron if you ask me. And let’s be honest it’s not new at all. The name is catchy but the shade itself is a classic in rotation.
The icy, ashy era that started back in 2015 is phasing out and warmer tones are back. Warm tones are often more flattering, they reflect light add radiance and make skin glow in a way ash rarely does.
Personally I skipped the whole icy- silver era. Though I will give credit where it is due. This era really helped women embrace their natural grey, salt and pepper hair which I’m obsessed with by the way.
By definition Platinum blonde is an icy silvery blonde, not warm. Stylists create this by bleaching hair to a level 9 yellow blonde or level 10 pale yellow blonde then tone the hair with a purple based gloss to cancel the yellow. In other words platinum = cool , Lemon = warm.
Put them together and you get a contradiction, the kind that leave clients confused in the chair.
I first came across this “Lemon Platinum” in Byride and honestly I wasn’t surprised, it’s exactly the kind of catchy name that makes sense in a trend piece.
Turns out Hairstylist Tom Smith coined the phrase. And he describes lemon platinum as “bright, unapologetic and a bit provocative” His advice to hairstylists to achieve this look “ It needs to be lifted lighter first and then toned on purpose, ideally using something bespoke or diluted that creates that soft lemon tint without tipping into clown territory”
But here’s where I disagree, there is no point in toning hair to achieve this look. In fact what’s trending now is something stylists have been doing for years, skipping toner altogether for a raw bright lift. Nostalgic? Absolutely.
Golden blonde was the standard from the 60s through the early 2000s. Think Goldie Hawn Claudia Schiffer, Jane Fonda, Dolly Parton and Kirsten Dunst.
Today’s Golden girls, Sabrina Carpenter, Ella Fanning, Anya Taylor Joy, are carrying the torch from Kate Hudson her mother before her.
Stylist Jenna Perry calls it
“vintage with a rejuvenating touch,”
Warmth that feels intentional rather than brassy
Some stylists may want to reach for the high-lift color, but that is not a universal solution. It requires a strong developer and often works best on natural blondes. For darker hair bleach will be more effective.
I learned this the hard way in 2011, as a level 4 brunette, I asked for a bleach and tone, but walked out with a brassy high lift instead. I smiled and said thank you but inside I hated it. Proof I know how hard it can be to speak up in the chair
How you should To ask your Stylist for this color
If you want this look book a bleach and tone and ask for a pale clean yellow blonde, Just know it is very high maintenance, you will need root touch ups every 5 weeks. For a softer approach book a full highlight, full transformation blonde if you are darker. This will grow out seamlessly
Here’s a hard truth : Lemon platinum is best suited for natural blondes looking to brighten up their color. Brunettes can get close but the up keep will be brutal and the risk of damage is real, so if you try it enjoy it as a fling not a long term relationship.